Punakaiki to Hokitika

It was a cold night! Even the locals don't expect temperatures down to 5C in February! Certainly Maui don't equip their vans with winter bedding at this time so we ended up sleeping in fleece socks and fleece tops during the night. But after our exertions of yesterday and our final walk on the beach we were able to get a good night's sleep.

Now, don't anyone tell Jennifer (we may e-mail a confession but only after we get back home) but we have decided to revise the last few days of the trip. Unbelievably we have to be back in Christchurch on Monday, ready to fly home to a bracing Shropshire on Tuesday. But we are not downhearted as we still have three whole days to fill. Jennifer had us driving down to Franz Josef Glacier today and staying there overnight. In the light of last night's temperatures and the fact that Franz Josef is another 120+ miles further south (in New Zealand that means closer to the Antarctic!) we decided that we would just drive down as far as Hokitika, which is some 40 kms (c.25 miles) south of Greymouth and is the arts and crafts centre of Westland. If we do decide to go down to the glaciers then it will be a day trip from there.

But first things first. The purpose of going to Punakaiki was to visit a rock formation known as Pancake Rocks. These are layers of eroded limestone that give the appearance of being stacked one on top of another, just like a pile of pancakes. It was less than a kilometre from the campsite on the way to Greymouth so we were there pretty early. We didn't leave for well over an hour, as the rocks with the sea bursting into them, the wildlife, the vegetation and the views could not be looked at quickly. Unfortunately the tide was on its way out and the rocks with various blowholes are at their best with an incoming tide, literally reaching their peak at high tide. However there was enough evidence at the time we were there to appreciate the glories of the scene.

We stopped in Greymouth on our way through to fill up with diesel. We have to say that it was salutary reminder, when we saw a sign outside Westport which advised that there was no more fuel available for the next 100 kilometres, that it is as well to fill up when you can. The west coast is not an area you would wish to experience if you have an empty tank! Whilst we were at the pump we got into conversation with a NZ local at the next pump. He wanted to know whether we were having a good holiday and gave us advice on what to see and where to go in the remaining time available but accepted our point that they would have to appear on our 'what we shall do in New Zealand on our next visit' list. His recommendation was at least an eight week trip!

We had seen signs at various times on our way down the coast (we are sure you are getting bored with being told how wonderful the scenery is so we won't say it) about a place called Shantytown. This is a village created from old buildings being gathered together (a little like Blists Hill in Ironbridge) to create a town from the late 19^th/early 20^th century and tells the story of life in a gold mining town of that time. There was a shortlived goldrush here for a while and many people moved into the area hoping to make their fortunes, including quite surprisingly, a number of Chinese people.We decided to make a visit and were very pleased we did.

We even had a short trip on a steam railway which followed the course of an old logging line.

 We also visited the various buildings which included a hospital, library/reading room, school and railway station. It is really great to see that New Zealand history is being honoured rather than hankering after what happens elsewhere and how it is then reflected in New Zealand. 

We had an interesting conversation with one of the conservators about what is being thrown away in New Zealand which should be preserved. She was not talking about the activities of institutions but of individuals. Mind you, that can be said of anywhere I am sure. One of the specific items that is disappearing is what she described as 'primitive furniture', viz. furniture put together from spare timber etc. until such time as 'proper' furniture could be purchased. She believes that most of such items have been burnt.

After this we completed our journey to Hokitika and found our campsite. Of all the places we have camped for the night on this trip, this was the most disappointing. The facilities were very clean and tidy (as they have been without fail everywhere we have been) with scalding hot showers and even a hairdryer but the actual pitches were poor and uncared for, as was most of the holiday park (campsite in UK-speak). There were certainly no views such as those we have almost come to expect wherever we stay, although the fact that we were right next to the local milk processing factory should have made us feel right at home! Needless to say we took no photos!

We drove into the town and had dinner, rather surprisingly, at the Cafe de Paris. This was excellent, we both had Filet de Cochon, which was very well presented. As we drove back afterwards we discussed what we were going to do over the next couple of days, (other than find another campsite) and made the decision that we will not venture any further south but explore the country around Hokitika tomorrow and then see what delights the town itself has to offer on Saturday.